The journey started as I walked to Jeongja subway station by myself (정자역) and got
on the bus at 10:30 pm for my first hike with Nurimbo climbing group (느림보 산악회). The word Nurimbo in Korean means “slow poke” which is pretty funny because I cannot keep up with most of these people who are senior to me when going down the mountain!
The air was moist and thick on this early October night in 2008. I was welcomed by a
kind group of Korean people and asked to introduce myself in Korean by microphone on the bus once we got the last members from a couple more stops. The bus ride took almost 4 hours winding through the hills, and we pulled into the parking lot of Seorak Mountain (설악산) in a heavy rain storm. This is a beautiful and rugged mountain range in the northeast corner of South Korea, very close to the border of North Korea. Once we got off the bus, the first order of business was to put headlamps and raingear on, pair up with a partner, and dig into some kimchi tofu stew before we started the hike.
My partner was Mr. Jo, a very witty man who spoke little English, but we
communicated well enough with my limited Korean.
I remember the tranquility of this hike and the silence besides each person’s breath on the first steep incline. As a less experienced hiker at the time, it was my first night adventure and I was excited yet relaxed amongst strangers. The rain continued to pelt us until we hit a ridgeline of sleet and ice at 2000 meters above sea level where each step was taken cautiously, and I began to focus on moisture management as the body heat generation was in full effect.
One thing you want to avoid when hiking in cold and wet weather is overheating and
becoming dehydrated. The group of 30 trudged on like a pack of wildebeests
stopping for only two small breaks to refuel with tasty snacks over the 11 plus hour
hike. The rain was so heavy those of us on the A course were forced to switch to the B
track for safety. We pushed on with smiles taking in the beauty at sunrise up and over
various peaks with the highest point at just over 1700 meters (대청봉). I remember
numerous waterfalls that looked like traditional paintings but they were so real with the
crashing thunder of each in surround sound. There were also many arteries because
there was so much water that it was forming its own channels and flowing down
mountainsides without effort. The sky was an eerie gray color, but majestic with the
hues of the fall foliage and slow growing pine trees in the distance. Those old pine trees amazed me how they just seem to grow out of small cracks in rock, bent in shape, but strong in stature.
The contrast and transition from starting at dusk when pitch black to daylight
was astonishing and burnt into my memory. There were times when I was tired, cold,
feet were sore, but dug deeper with my partner and group to continue. A bond was
formed not only between me and my partner, Mr. Jo, but the entire hiking group. It was
a baptism in fire so to say, not that we were entering an actual battle, but one that
required a certain physical and mental stamina. I believe the climbing group gained
respect from me on my first trip with them and it was mutual. It was all positive; no
complaints. Since that day I have hiked with this group 25 times in every corner of
the country. I have made some amazing friends and shared experiences of life on each.
My favorite part of each trip is the communal large pot dinner cooked at the end of the
hike before the bus ride home. It is a time to bond with fellow hikers, throw back a
couple drinks (소주, 맥주, 소맥) if you wish and reflect on the moment. We often wash
our feet (and more) in the cool water of a stream at the end of a long hike. The feeling is refreshing and renewing.
Hiking in the mountains of Korea has also introduced me to Buddhism which I have
been practicing for many years now as a philosophy, not a religion. There are temples
scattered throughout the mountains and typically open to the public. My curiosity was
trigged while hiking and I slowly began venturing deeper into the temples before doing
overnight stays and just practicing on my own or at a temple in New York City.
One of the things I love so much is that South Korea is filled with densely populated
cities, but nestled up against mountains in all directions. It is the best of both worlds to
me to have the culture and the pulse of city life, but roots and sedation provided by the
mountains as well. So take a look around for some hikes in your area, and get some
fresh air! It is good for the mind, body and soul.
On a more global scale, it is my long term hope to see reunification of both countries. I remember having the opportunity to go hiking on a guided tour in North Korea at Geumgangsan (금강산) in 2007 and my wife said to wait until next year because we only had a day before paperwork was due and it was an hour drive out of Seoul. That July a South Korean tourist was shot and killed and the tours were cancelled ever since. With my inlaws being refugees that fled from Pyongyang, North Korea in 1950, it is personal. I am very interested in not only the natural beauty of the country, but more importantly the welfare of those in need of basics like food, water, and freedom. Keep hope alive!
